Beam Wine Estates presents a Blind California Cab Tasting at Cork
Wendie Waters of Qwik Way/Beverage City fame was kind enough to invite me to sit in on an education tasting for her staff at their new Cork Wine Store/Tasting Bar this past Thursday. By the way, if you have not been to Cork yet, do yourself a favor and check it out. It is a really hip and chic place to sample wines before you buy them. When I was in there on Thursday, the tasting bar menu included the Amon Ra, a Robert Parker 98 point Shiraz from Australia, and the new 2005 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. Holy smokes they were incredible!
Steve Hosmer, the Director of Wine Education West, from Beam Wine Estates, on this day would be leading us through an educational class on the origins of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape varietal. He then concluded the event with a blind tasting of some of the California Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the Beam Wine Estate portfolio. These wines included; the Clos Du Bois 2004 Alexander Valley Reserve, the Clos Du Bois 2003 Marlstone (a meritage wine blend), a Geyser Peak 2004 Reserve Alexandre Meritage, a Geyser Peak 2004 Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet, the Atlas Peak 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (the lone Napa wine) and the Wild Horse 2004 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon. The Wild Horse was the only Cab in the tasting that came from the central California wine regions. To me it was easy to pick out because it did not have the same profile as the other wines, not as much depth and not the extreme ripe fruit flavors that the rest possessed. To be truthful though, it probably represented a style more first my two favorites were the Clos Du Bois wines, I just liked how the oak meshed with the fruit in them and they were both very approachable wines to drink now. However, after letting the Atlas Peak, which was the sixth and last wine in our tasting, sit in the glass for over an hour, it really opened up and I believe ultimately became the champion in my book. I guess it depends on what your style is, but I loved the complexity the wine showed. Big tannins though, either cellar it for a while or decant it for an hour. Either way you’ll be in for a real treat! The Geyser Peak wines are perfect for those that like a more subtle style of cabernet and outside of the Wild Horse, they probably would make the best food wines in our tasting.
Before the tasting actually started, Steve took us through a slide show presentation that covered the origins and profile of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape and some satellite photographs of Napa and Sonoma and the regions the Beam Wine Estates wines came from. You can find most of the facts that Steve covered on this esteemed red wine grape on our Cabernet Sauvignon Varietal page. Some of the highlights about the grape are as follows; its origin is in France where it was the offspring of the two wine grape varietals, Sauvignon Blanc (a white wine grape) and Cabernet Franc (a red wine grape). Hence the name Cabernet Sauvignon was derived from the two parent grapes. Its birth onto the wine scene actually took place in the late 18th century so even though it enjoys the status of “King” amongst all the wine grape varietals, it is virtually a baby compared to other wine producing varietals like Pinot Noir for example. It is relatively easy for growers to maintain in the vineyards because it has such a thick skin and smaller berry size than most other grape variatels. This means that it is more resistant to rot and other casualties in the vineyard like birds or accidental punctures from vineyard workers, etc… Its thick skin and the ratio of skin to juice is also what accounts for the huge tannin structure the resulting wines have become famous for. I liked the analogy Steve used here with regards to the tannin structure of Cab grapes. He said it is like brewing tea. The less water you use to brew your tea (set the bag in), the more tannic or rough the tea will taste. That is exactly what is going on with Cab grapes. More skin (tea bag) mixed with less juice (water). Other than the obvious “its easy to grow and sell” factor for vineyard growers, another reason it is appealing to them is that there is very little danger of frost and rot damage due to the fact it buds later than most other grape varietals.
It was fun tasting the wines blind, even though I had tasted them all before, I still guessed wrong on a few of them. The Wild Horse was the easiest to pick out because it was clearly different than the rest and the two Clos Du Bois wines were also very familiar to me. I think the most interesting thing in the tasting though was how radically the Atlas Peak Cab changed in the course of an hour. Oxygen really has quite an effect on wine. As the others started to taper off as they oxygenated, the Atlas Peak kept building momentum. This only goes to prove, at least in my humble opinion, that Napa is still the king of great Cabs in the State of California.