My Visit to Napa, Sonoma & Livermore Valley Wineries
Pleasanton California. Outside of the fact I knew it Software, I knew very little about it before this year. you that. But thanks to my new job this year as a software instructor for Oracle, I have become quite familiar with the Mayberry like town. Pleasanton is about a 45-minute drive southeast from San Francisco, depending of course on traffic. It is a quite the little suburbia sandwiched around a tiny town square that gives it an illustrious charm. One other alluring feature about Pleasanton is that it is within short driving distance to the Napa and Sonoma Valley and a mere fifteen minutes from the Livermore Valley Wine Country, home of Wente, Concannon and a whole host of other up and coming wineries.
My first trip out to Pleasanton occurred at the end of May and carried over into the first of June. I wasted no time in booking and making some appointments in Napa Valley with some wineries. The trip wasn’t all pleasure; I had some club shipments to pick up too. Okay, who am I kidding, even that was a lot of fun! I belong to a number of winery club memberships and most of the wineries on this visit were to ones that I belong to. I got to go and re-visit Chateau Montelena and Burgess Cellars to pick up some club shipments that were ready to go out and had a little time to taste some wines and take a few more photos. Two of the newer wine clubs I joined were Honig and Chappellet. Chappellet had sent out an invitation for me to come visit them, as if I needed an excuse to do so! Naturally, I quickly picked up the phone and made the appointment to do just that. I already knew where Honig was located, having visited their neighbor, Frog’s Leap, the year before and so I gave them a call to schedule a visit as well. I spoke to David on the phone (He is a member of the hospitality team) and told him that I was a member of their wine club and the President of a wine club back in Dallas, Texas. His words to me and I quote, “We’ll come on up here and we’ll get ya drunk!” I don’t think I could have been any more excited to visit a place on earth!
Last year when I visited Napa Valley for the first time, it was in no small part because of the opportunity to meet Michael Chiarello from the Food Network and Napa Style. So in honor of Michael, I thought I would find a place that had a tie in to Michael Chiarello’s TV show and that of course if Trefethen winery. In case you didn’t know, Trefethen winery is the location where Michael films his “Easy Entertaining with Michael Chiarello” show for the Food Network. The Trefethen’s are also close and personal friends of his, so I thought it would be neat to see what the winery was all about. I will tell you this much, it was probably the most in-depth and comprehensive winery tour I’ve ever taken as you will see later on the Trefethen page.
I made a short visit to the Plumpjack Winery one day and I managed to pop into Robert Mondavi’s winery to pick up a particular wine that I have been collecting for some years now. Although I did not stay long, I must say it is quite impressive, but very, very crowded. In fact, now is a good time for me to give you a few pointers about visiting Napa. One, it is worth seeking out the wineries that are off the beaten path. In other words, get off of Highway 29 where there are rows and rows of wineries, albeit some fantastic ones including Opus One, but also tons and tons of cars and drunk tourists. The tasting rooms are overcrowded and no’ one at the winery has any time whatsoever to give you some one on one feedback or insight on the winery. People moan and groan all the time to me about how you have to pay to taste the wines. Well, wine isn’t cheap and unlike other beverages where you can have an infinite supply of it, there is only so much wine made every vintage. The wineries in my opinion that are located off of Highway 29 have to charge you something to taste their wines, otherwise they would go bankrupt from all of the freeloaders burning through their entire wine inventory. And make no mistake, the crowds at these wineries consist of about ten to twenty percent genuine wine enthusiasts and about eighty to ninety percent of people looking for a nice cheap place to catch a buzz.
The second point you should strongly consider before taking a trip to Napa is to call ahead and book an appointment. Honestly, it really makes all the difference in the world. I am not talking about calling the day before or even the week before for that matter. Put some thought into it and plan ahead. Look for wineries that are mid sized or smaller and way off the beaten path. When you call ahead, you give the wineries a chance to prepare for you and they appreciate that. Often times you are rewarded with a much more generous experience as a result. I know this drives all of you spontaneous improvisers nuts, but a trip to Napa or even Sonoma really involves some time, thought and careful planning. That includes restaurants and where to stay too! The difference in the stories you tell versus the spontaneous crowd will be quite different. While they are standing in line and waiting for a half hour just to get a spot up at the tasting bar, you were sampling wine from the barrel with the winemaker at a boutique winery or having a glass or two with winery owners on the back patio like Leslie and I did with Robert & PJ Rex of Deerfield Ranch in Sonoma. All right, enough of my soapbox.
One suggestion I received last year from Jim Burgess of Burgess Cellars was to stop by Taylor’s Refresher for lunch. They have all kinds of wonderful sandwiches and food, but what they are really known for are their hamburgers and shakes. Many of the locals eat here too so you never know who you might run into. How about a little Duckhorn Merlot with that Cheeseburger? Taylor’s Refresher can make it happen. The best advice I can give you though is to get there early or you will be standing in a very long line. Jim gave me another great piece of advice as how to beat the line too, but I will keep that to myself! Around the back of the restaurant are plenty of picnic type tables set up in the grass to eat, although, I am usually too excited to stay and eat there, opting instead to grab my food and head off to the next winery. I’m such a wine geek!
Around the last of July, I found myself back in Pleasanton for work again. This time I was armed ahead of time with the knowledge of it’s proximity to the Livermore Valley wine region. There is actually a really great website that lists all of the Livermore wineries and whether they have tastings and tours and what their hours of operation are. Wente is probably the most famous of them all, so I wanted to check them out, but I targeted a couple others as well. At the top of my list was a little boutique winery that specialized in Pinot Noirs made with fruit from all over the state. Ironically, none of that Pinot Noir fruit came from Livermore Valley, but they had some heavy hitters like Gary’s Vineyard in Santa Lucia Highlands. The name of this winery is called La Rochelle. I tasted three of their Pinot Noir wines and completely flipped! They will not be unnoticed for long, trust me!
I only had Monday to visit the Livermore Valley and my flight was late so time was really limited. Flights’ being delayed seems to be the common place these days. I won’t mention the airline I was flying, I just don’t think that would the American thing to do! So as a result, I had to cut my visits down to two wineries and I had an appointment with Wente. As you will see from their page, I got to experience a first for me and that is I got to witness first hand the bottling of wine on premise in action. I filmed it too! It is a pretty cool thing to see I must tell you!
The end of the workweek for me was that Friday, but the fun was just beginning. Leslie flew up to meet me in Pleasanton and after a night of fine dining and a trip to a local comedy club, we headed out to Sonoma Valley for the weekend. This was my first trip to the Sonoma Valley and I must say, it is quite a bit larger than Napa. All of my preconceived notions about Sonoma vs. Napa turned out to be completely false! All I’ve ever been told is that Sonoma has more of a laid back feel and it is less crowded. When? That is what I want to know? Even some of the smaller wineries off the beaten path we visited were two and three rows deep at the tasting bar. There were several big highways going through the valley, most notably highway 101, and as a whole it seemed much more urban than the complete country-like feel of Napa. It didn’t stop us from having a wonderful time though.
For starters, I had booked us for a two-night stay at the Birmingham Bed & Breakfast with our most gracious and hospitable hosts, Nancy and Jerry. I booked early enough to get the Red Room, which came complete with the only upstairs patio/balcony. Nancy prepares an amazing, and I do mean amazing, breakfast that she conjures up featuring fresh food from her own garden. Both the food and presentation was so good, I believed it came from a fancy hotel. Mingling with some of the other guests was a lot of fun too and each night, we’d open a bottle of wine and sit outside and play a game of ‘Uno’ or two. The B&B was located right on Highway 12 and within walking distance to a few wineries including Kenwood and Chateau St. Jean.
Taking the Wine Spectator’s advice, we visited Bovolo, a restaurant located at the back of Plaza Farms ( a food specialty store) in downtown Healdsburg for lunch. You can sit out back and eat on their little patio, or since they prepare a variety of picnic type of meals, you could take it to go and enjoy at a winery that has places for you to eat. We had a Caesar salad and a spinach and proscuitto pizza that was marvelous.
Speaking of places to eat, our B&B hosts had recommended to us the Glen Ellen Inn for dinner and they made a reservation for us to eat there that Saturday evening. Good heavens it was fantastic! I forgot to take my camera, but we sat outside by a garden and fountain and thoroughly enjoyed every minute and forkful of our experience there.
On Saturday, we first visited Siduri, a boutique Pinot Noir winery located in a warehouse. I will go into more detail on their page. After lunch at Bovolo, we headed to the Alexander Valley and stopped into the tasting room at Hanna. Talk about gorgeous. It is located on a hill and surrounded by vineyards. Worth checking out just for the view alone and their wines were very good as well. It was unfortunately crowded though. The next winery we stopped at was a complete and total circus. It was the Rodney Strong Winery and I believe they had some summer concert going on there and it was overrun with people crowding around the tasting bar. Again, the wines were very good though. We finished our tasting tour on Saturday at a winery way off the beaten path in the Russian River Valley known as Hartford Family Vineyards. They are known for their Pinot Noir and Zinfandel wines more than anything else and in fact, came in first place in our recent Pinot Noir staff tasting. This was a little more laid back compared with the last two wineries, but we still had fight our way to the tasting bar.
Sunday was to be a completely different story and one that someone like me could only dream about. After Nancy’s unbelievable breakfast, we headed over to Chateau St. Jean at 10:30 in the morning for a private VIP tasting. (another thing that must be set up in advance) First of all, the winery is simply breathtaking. If you are in Sonoma, at least drive up into the winery and take a walk around the gardens. Yeow! The place is huge and I am sure later in the day it gets extremely crowded, but it sure is nice. On our VIP Tasting Tour, we headed over to the actual Chateau that the family lived in for quite some time. The tasting took place in a private room upstairs overlooking some gardens and vineyards. The wines we sampled were all of their top blends and single vineyard offerings and each one was incredible, including the Cinq Cepage. Ever heard of this wine? It is a former No. 1 wine on the WS Top 100 list. They also had a spread of gourmet cheeses for Leslie and I to taste with the various wines. And oh, by the way, it was just Leslie and I and our host in this tasting, no’ one else. Our host, however, was truly the one responsible for making this experience so remarkable. His name was Felix and he was from Germany, still complete with a little, but charming German accent. The conversation we had with Felix at first was all about Chateau St. Jean, but it soon turned towards worldly topics and a heck of a lot of laughs courtesy of my Texas Hic sounding wife. He made our time there incredible. In fact, the tasting was only supposed to last an hour or so and we wound up spending three hours there!
Our last stop was to the home of Winemaker and Winery owner, Robert Rex and his wife PJ. For me it was extremely gratifying to sit and listen to every word Robert said about his early days of winemaking in the Sonoma Valley and the characters he ran into along the way. I will go into all of the juicy details on the Deerfield Ranchpage, if you are a wine enthusiast, you cannot miss this page!
I hope you will visit some or even all of these winery pages and see and read their remarkable stories. Pop a cork, pour a glass and get comfortable and cozy in front of the computer and take a peek!
Cheers!
Shane Johnson President Dallas Secret Wine Society