| Wine Style of The Month |
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| California Super Cabernet Sauvignon's |
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| Family Traditions Normally, each month I write about a particular grape or wine region and we review wines that fall into those categories. This month however, we are going to take a bit of a detour and actually talk about some of the Elite Wineries and the Super California Cabernet Sauvignons and Meritages that they produce. These Napa Valley Icons represent the best of the best and consistently prove it in the market place. For some of us, with more modest means, wines like these are once in a lifetime splurges. A wine that creates an experience that will lead to a lifetime of memories. These are wines you will talk about again and again with friends and family. The great folks at these wineries themselves provided most of the information contained on this page, the Wine & Food Pairing page and the Monthly Recipes page. The fact that they responded to my request for information shows you just how much they care about the people that drink their wines. I think it is interesting to note all the similarities between the wineries, and there are quite a few of them. Most of them bought the land in the 70’s when Napa Valley hadn’t garnered quite the reputation it has today and was certainly much less expensive per acre. They all have vineyards or source vineyards that are located in what are considered to be the best appellations for growing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in California. Interestingly enough, they seem to all focus on the same grape varietals exclusively. All of them have won numerous accolades from their peers in the wine industry and they all have customers that are fiercely loyal to them. There is also a philosophy that they all seem to share and that is that they regard their wine as an experience rather than a product you drink Cakebread Cellars You could say that Cakebread Cellars is a family affair. In this family, it is quite obvious to me that the apple does not fall too far from the tree. From what I can tell, everyone born into Jack and Dolores Cakebread’s family apparently has a hand in their winery business. Keeping Cakebread Cellars a family tradition could be one of the main reasons for their amazing success in the Napa Wine lore. For starters there is Jack who visited the Napa Valley area over thirty years ago to do a photo shoot. While he was there, he had causally mentioned to some family friends that owned a ranch in the Rutherford district of Napa Valley that he would like to someday own a vineyard. Upon returning home from his visit, these same friends contacted him about buying their property. The rest as they say is history. Their first vintage of wines was in 1973 and they produced 157 cases of Chardonnay. Something to this day that the Cakebread reputation has been built upon, their award-winning Chardonnay wines. Of course you can’t live in Napa Valley and not produce the king of all red wines and soon it was that Cakebread was making wonderful and long-aging Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Then there is Jack’s wife, Dolores, the hostess with the mostess. Okay, I made that word up, but you get the connotation. In the beginning, it was Dolores that made all of the winery visitors welcome with wonderfully prepared organic food that was paired with the family’s wines. In fact, to this day, Dolores is still championing and promoting the art of healthy eating and healthy lifestyle. She puts together a four-day seminar every year that gathers together some of the top chefs in the country and the winemaker, who work together to discuss, wine, food and a healthy lifestyle. This annual event is called the “American Harvest Workshop”. Dolores is assisted in this workshop by Karen Cakebread. It’s wonderful to have a wine that sells itself every year by reputation alone and the person responsible for getting the word out about the goings on at the winery would be Dennis Cakebead. Are you seeing a pattern here? Dennis is the director of sales for Cakebread Cellars and he operates on the philosophy that ‘wine is fun and should be enjoyed with others while doing fun and memorable things’. I guess this philosophy has caught on, have you seen how hard it is to acquire one of their wines in the Dallas market? If you don’t pounce on a bottle or two when they are first released, you’ll miss out completely! Now if you are going to own a winery, you are going to need someone to make the wines. I know that this is about to come as a shock to most of you reading this, but yep, you guessed it, another Cakebread is in charge of making the wines at the Cellar. That would be Bruce Cakebread. Bruce states that the biggest changes that have occurred over the years are the technological advances in both their winery and the industry as a whole. Cakebread now has a state-of-the-art winery with all of the latest equipment including a neutron-probe irrigation system for watering the vineyards in a controlled environment. I’m not sure what a neutron-probe irrigation system is, but from the sound of it, I sure wouldn’t want to make Bruce mad! I guess I better go out and buy some more Cakebread wines! My first experience with a Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon came just this year while I was attending Savor Dallas back in February. There were literally over a hundred wines represented at this Grand Tasting, but I can tell you with a hundred percent certainty that it was the Cakebread Cabernet that stood out above all the rest. It certainly made quite a believer out of me and apparently it made quite an impression on everyone else there because they ran out of all of their wines in under two hours. A lot of Napa Cabs that are along the same quality lines as Cakebread make wines that are too austere to be enjoyed right away. They need time for their tannins to soften to become enjoyable to drink. However, Cakebread’ s Cabernet is remarkable right out of the gate and if you wanted to, you could indeed age it for an additional five to seven years. This is a quality that most of us could certainly appreciate! This month we will be tasting their 2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. These are your typical Left Bank Bordeaux Claret varietals. They sourced the grapes for this wine from a combination of grapevines located in the cool Carneros district in the south, the warm Calistoga region at the northern end of the valley and the lion’s share of grapes come from their own neck of the woods in the mid-valley Rutherford appellation. Blending these grapes grown in different areas with different growing conditions allows Cakebread to make a more complex Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were harvested from September 21st thru October 14th, 2002. The wine was aged 20 months in French oak barrels and finally bottled in July 2004. The results of course, are indeed stunning. If you would like to learn more about this fantastic winery, visit them at www.cakebread.com Caymus It would be impossible to have a discussion about the great California Super Cabs without mentioning Caymus. In fact, from 1988 to 1997, Caymus has had one of their Cabernet Sauvignons make the Wine Spectator’s Top 10 list in six out of those ten years and in 1994, their “Special Selection” cab was “Wine of The Year”. In 1997, Caymus was named “Best Winery for Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Blend in California” in the Wine Spectator’ s “Readers’ Choice Awards”. Every single year, their Cabs score consistently above 90 and when I go to wine auctions, their older Cabs are a hot ticket among the collectors. If you said that Charles F. Wagner was born to run a winery, you would be quite literally right. You see, his forefathers immigrated to the San Francisco Bay area from Alsace, France, a region known for its amazing white wines. After the great earthquake of 1906, the Wagner’s acquired farmland in the Rutherford District of Napa Valley, where in 1912, they gave birth to our hero Charlie in 1912 on the family ranch. Little did they know that they had mistakenly settled in one of the greatest places on earth to grow Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In 1941, Charlie and his wife, Lorna Belle Glos, purchased 73 acres in Rutherford and started to make wine. It wasn’t until the 1960’s, when they purchased Cabernet grapes from Nathan Fay’s vineyard in Stag’s Leap, that they started making world class Cabernet Sauvignon wines. By the 1970’s, Cabernet Sauvignon became their sole focus, as they began producing only two types of Cabs, their regular Estate Cab and their Special Selection Cab. Both of which are outstanding and neither of them are cheap! It was 1972 when Charles, Lorna and their son Chuck established the Caymus Vineyards winery and since then, their reputation has blossomed. They came up with the name “Caymus” from the Mexican land grant that encompassed the Rutherford District and surrounding areas. This 19th century land grant was known as the “Rancho Caymus”. Their son Chuck took over as winemaker in 1984 and after father Charlie passed away in 2002, he took over all of the winery and business operations. The 2002 vintage, which comprises the grapes used in the wine we are reviewing this month, was the culmination of some educated gambles taken by Chuck that all paid extremely great dividends. It was the first year that vines he had planted in an area previously thought inhospitable for Cabernet grapes produced wine grapes that were used in the proprietary blend. This success was due in large part to his choice in new rootstocks and Cabernet clones that adapted well to the soil. They also increased vine density to over 4,000 vines per acre. In laymen terms, what that accomplishes is this; when more grapes are competing for water and sun, they work harder to survive and thus produce more concentrated juice. Well, that is the nutshell version anyway. The grapes were harvested between the second week of September all the way through October. The blend is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Rutherford (29%), St. Helena (26%), Atlas Peak (11%) and other Napa vineyards (23%) with 11% of Merlot from the Carneros region. These were aged in French Oak made by five different coopers in order to incorporate their different styles and complexities. They stayed in these barrels for twenty months before being blended and bottled. The results, and you can taste for yourself, are truly magnificent! To learn more about Caymus wines, visit them here: www.caymus.com Duckhorn Our third Napa Cult wine hero, Dan Duckhorn, saw his fame and star status launched, not from Cabernet Sauvignon wines entirely, but rather his fortunate optimistic belief that California could produce outstanding Merlot and more importantly, people would want to drink it. His passion for Merlot was born out of a trip to the St. Emillon and Pomerol villages in Bordeaux, where some of the greatest Merlot wines in the world are produced and certainly the most expensive. He believed that the Napa Valley had the right soil and climate for the grape and that consumers would appreciate Merlot’s soft texture and the fact that it is easier to pair with food than Cabernet Sauvignon. Up until Dan began making wines in 1978, California vintners only considered Merlot for a blending grape and nothing else. His first year producing wines saw Dan producing 800 cases each of Merlot as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. I guess you could say, Dan is the father of California Merlot. Duckhorn Vineyards was founded in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn and even from the beginning their focus has always been on the Bordeaux varietals. In 1982 they added the white Bordeaux varietal, Sauvignon Blanc to their arsenal of wines. Believing that it was these Bordeaux varietals that were perfect for the Napa Valley, Dan resisted the urge to plant Chardonnay like so many other California winemakers did. Dan learned first hand how to assess vineyard sites and pairing varietals with their most suitable terroir when he became President of the Vineyard Consulting Corporation (VCC) in 1971. He has since become an extremely vital figure in the California Wine Industry filling such roles as director of the Wine Institute, the American Vintners Association and Family Winemakers of California. He was president of the Napa Valley Vintners Association and the Wine Service Co-op as well as being a past chair of the Napa Valley Wine Auction. As you can see, Dan stays busy! Although Dan is a highly skilled winemaker, Duckhorn wines would not be where they are today without the help of his wife Margaret. It was Margaret in the beginning that put in the late hours helping Dan throughout the harvest time sorting grapes, assisting in blending, etc… And later, she developed specialized skills in marketing and international public relations. Thanks to these skills, she was able to get the Duckhorn name out to the international community as well as the American Wine buying consumers. Today, Duckhorn has six estate vineyards that are located on the coveted slopes of Howell Mountain in the Napa Valley. It is from these vineyards that the lions share of grapes are used to make up the four distinct Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon wines that they offer. The blends for these wines come from almost 200 different and distinctive lots. Each lot is barrel-aged separately utilizing 25 different types of oak from 13 separate cooperages. The majority of these barrels come from French oak in the Bordeaux Chateau style. What else would you expect? The 2001 season got off to an early start thanks to a warm spring. The crop levels were low, which can be a good thing and overall quality was excellent thanks to the mild summer temperatures and longer than normal growing season. The 2001 Cab was made from 100% Napa Valley grapes from 13 different vineyards harvested from September 8th thru October 8th. The blend is comprised of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot and aged 19 months in 100% French Oak. (As if we expected any other variety). To learn more about Duckhorn Vineyards, check them out here: www.duckhornvineyards.com Merryvale You know, one common theme that keeps re-occurring with most of the wineries we are profiling this month is a belief that the best grapes grown in Napa Valley are those of the Bordeaux variety and Merryvale is no exception here. However, they take it one step further or to the extreme if you will. Not only do they use Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to add to their proprietary blend, the “Profile”, they go the extra mile and plant small quantities of Petit Verdot as well for authenticity and just a little extra something that none of the other California wineries have. The end result is a traditional Bordeaux Claret style blend, but with a California spin! Merryvale doesn’t stop there when it comes to emulating the great Chateau of Bordeaux, because just like the winemakers of France, Merryvale believes in using only vineyard sites with the best terroir suited for their grapes. Vineyard sites that have a long track record of producing very exciting and high quality wine grapes. These would include California’s prestigious vineyard sites like Beckstoffer’s Vineyard X and Georges III for their Cabernet Sauvignon, and Las Amigas as well as Showket for Merlot. All of these places produce grapes or ‘raw materials’ as they call them in the business, that expresses magnificent varietal expression and purity of fruit. Both qualities make Merryvale’s winemaker, Stephen Test’s job that much easier. Despite the fact that Merryvale was only founded in 1983 by Jack Schlatter and his family, Lilo, Rene’, Laurence and Jenna, the winery itself was actually the first one built after the repeal of Prohibition. They are located in the heart of Napa Valley in the town of St. Helena. I think that is what separates many of these wineries like Merrvale from the rest in California and that is the fact that the whole family plays a very active role in the day- to-day operations of the winery. Merryvale is not run by a corporation that is hell-bent on bringing in truckloads of the almighty dollar. Instead, the wines are passionately cared for by people that care very deeply about the product they put forth to the market and what the wine says to the drinker. They have total control over the whole process without any interference from the ‘suits’. Their passion and hard work comes through when you taste their wine and they must be doing something right because they have been named “Winery of The Year” seven times from “Wine & Spirits” magazine. One of the very important decisions the Schlatter family made was to bring in the highly acclaimed winemaker, Stephen Test. After completing enology graduate work at UC Davis in 1980, prior to which he had received an undergraduate degree in biological sciences from Stanford University, he went to work right away in the wine industry by working for Domaine Laurier in Sonoma County. He also was the winemaker for Zellerbach Vineyards, which was later, renamed Stonestreet and was promoted to general manager in 1997. But when the opportunity to become the winemaker for a winery such as Merryvale that owned great vineyards sites and had long-term contracts with other outstanding vineyard owners presented itself in 1998, Stephen jumped at the chance to once again make world-class wines. Merryvale makes many different levels of wines. The entry-level category of wines is their “Starmont” brand and depending on the varietal, they run into the $20+ range. I find it somewhat ironic that they refer to these Starmont wines as ‘entry’ level when they are better than most wineries top wines. Our focus this month will be on their flagship proprietary blend in the traditional Bordeaux Claret style called “Profile”. The 2000 Profile is a wine blend that consists of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot for spice! The wines that make up this blend spent 18 months in French oak chateau barrels from traditional Bordeaux coopers before being bottled in July of 2002. The end result is a great wine with nice aging potential. If you are impatient though, you may decant it now and enjoy it with some well-marbled steaks! To learn more about Merryvale, visit them at : www.merryvale.com Cliff Lede Vineyards formally known as S. Anderson S. Anderson Vineyards was established in 1971 on land beside the Yountville Cross Road in the Napa Valley. It just so happened that this land would later become the Stags Leap District, world renowned for it’s powerful and gripping Cabernet Sauvignon and home to such famous wineries as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Oddly enough, at first it was not Cabernet Sauvignon wines that S. Anderson produced from this land, but rather sparkling wines. The first commercial vintage of sparkling wine they produced was in 1979 from the grapes they had planted on their property. This had to seem odd to many others in the area, seeing how this was Cabernet country, but S. Anderson did in fact become well known for their sparkling wines. Many of the grapes for these sparkling wines are sourced from the cooler Carneros region now. It wasn’t until 1989 that S. Anderson finally produced their first Cabernet Sauvignon wine and the grapes came from the Richard Chambers Vineyard in the heart of Stags Leap. I’m not sure why it took them so long to produce a cab, but I’m glad they did! I came to know S. Anderson wines through their Claret, which is a…you guessed it…a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It was recommended to me by Alex Morrow, who was at the time working at Beverage City in Frisco/Plano. What immediately stood out to me was the fact that it came from the Stags Leap District in Napa. Some of my all-time favorite Cabernet wines come from this region and at $25.00 or so, it was a fraction of the price of most of the other Cabs that are produced there. I must say, I was quite impressed, so much so, that I bought as much as I could, or that the store had in stock anyway. In 2002, Cliff Lede (pronounced Lay-dee), a Canadian businessman, purchased S. Anderson Vineyards. Of course I immediately became concerned that the little gem that I had found in the S. Anderson Claret was about to be changed forever. However, Cliff has wasted no time in making improvements to wine and it’s mostly unknown status. He brought in Michelle Edwards to be the winemaker in 2004. Michelle had been the assistant winemaker at Colgin Cellars. Those of you that know your California Cult Wineries know that they don’t get much bigger than Colgin. I am very much looking forward to the results of her efforts in future vintages. Cliff has also changed the name of the winery to Cliff Lede Vineyards. He will still be producing sparkling wines under the S. Anderson name, but the Claret I so dearly love will be under the Cliff Lede name. Cliff wants to create an experience, one of poetry in life, when you visit his winery in Stags Leap. He has built the Poetry Inn, which is the only public accommodations in the area and designed it in such a way to reflect his love of poetry. “We interpret the word poetry loosely,” says Lede, “We want to create an experience of depth and breadth here. We want people to find their way to this relatively undiscovered gem on the Yountville Cross Road and enjoy the poetry of all the beautiful things in life that we have here: wine, art, music, nature and architecture. There’s poetry in everything in this valley, and we want that feeling to pervade this place.” Even though the 2001 S. Anderson Claret is less than half the price of most of these other wines that we are reviewing this month, I am confident that it will stack up to the competition. I am eager to see how it does with our tasting panel, especially against our other Stags Leap Winery, Shafer. Let the fun begin! To check out more info about Cliff Lede Vineyards, you may find them here: www.cliffledevineyards.com Shafer If you drop by Shafer Vineyards for a visit in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley, chances are you will encounter a couple of smiling faces in the form of Jake & Tucker, the Shafer family dogs and official guest greeters. From what I gather, the whole scene at the Shafer Vineyards estate must be somewhat laid back and why not, they are surrounded by perfection in every direction. Hillside vineyards that year after year consistently produce wines of unbridled passion and pleasure. Why, even the Wine Spectator Magazine has made the comment that Shafer makes crafting great Cabernet Sauvignon wines look easy. It takes many wineries years of patience and practice to achieve success in the market and certainly even longer for industry acclaim, but that wasn’t the case with Shafer. John Shafer bought the 210 acre estate in 1972 and despite the fact it took years of planning and preparation in the vineyards, John and son Jack’s first crush of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the 1978 vintage was released to a chorus of praises. The debut wine was released in 1981 and promptly took first place in the San Francisco Vintners Club Cabernet taste-off. And if you can believe this, that same debut wine fifteen years later came in first place again in a 1993 German blind tasting against some of the elite first growth Bordeaux wines, including Chateau Margaux. Okay, so with a debut like that, surely there is only way to go from there and that is of course downhill, right? Wrong! If there is one thing that has been proven evident over the years, whether it was John, Jack or now Elias making the wines, it is that consistency of quality even in the poorest of vintages. Shafer just knows how to make great cabs. Doug, who moved out to Napa Valley with his father and mother when he was seventeen spent a large portion of his days helping John in the vineyards. He enjoyed it so much that he went on to UC Davis and studied enology. During his summers he did some work with Hanns Kornell and Robert Mondavi Wineries. Not bad people to learn a little something from, eh? He finally took over as winemaker in 1983 and was shortly thereafter aided by the current winemaker Elias Fernandez. “Elias and I were working well together and we’d both learned how intimately you get to know each vineyard block during crush”, says Jack. I’d say Jack’s right, he does not each vineyard block well because their consistency in quality is remarkable. There is a new addition to the Shafer grounds and it is in the way of a black and white male dog of unknown background. Alfonso Zamora, the vineyard manager is busy training this dog-named Pinto to chase away the deer that stop by to gnaw on their grapes. Besides, sampling the wine grapes is Jack and Tucker’s job, that is when Tucker is not busy eating the mail. The Shafer 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon is made up from grapes harvested in the Stags Leap District, Oak Knoll and St. Helena and is comprised of a blend that is made up of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot. This wine was aged for 20 months in 50% new oak, of which, half is from French Allier and Troncais oak and the other half is American oak from Missouri. As with all the previous vintages of Shafer Cabernet wines, this wine is a beauty and consistently so! If you are interested in learning more about Shafer Vineyards, log on to: www.shafervineyards.com Whitehall Lane In 1979, two brothers started a winery on a plot of land in the historic Rutherford appellation of Napa Valley that contained an old barn that was built in the early 1900’s. This barn is still in use today, but things are quite different around the grounds now. The two brothers began immediately to make many wines including Cabernet and Merlot. They decided to name their winery after the road that runs along the south border of the property, which is called “Whitehall Lane”. Even though these two brothers were finally starting to turn some heads in the wine public with their wines, they apparently decided that the wine business was not for them. So they sold their winery to a successful businessman from San Francisco in March of 1993. Although Tom Leonardini Sr. knew nothing about the wine business, he was very passionate about the subject and he had always been successful in all of his other business ventures, so he decided to mix a little business with pleasure? Tom wasted absolutely no time in making an already good wine, great. He started by implementing a new barrel-aging program for the wines and he updated the winery with all new state-of-the-art winemaking equipment. Although the winery already owned one terrific vineyard, he quickly acquired four more and signed contracts with other vineyard owners from which to source more grapes from. All of these vineyards were from excellent grape viticulture areas. He also brought in the wiz bang winemaker, Dean Sylvester to take these grapes from all of those new vineyard sites and craft the Whitehall Lane masterpieces they were about to unleash to the world. It didn’t take long for success to come their way because their 1995 Whitehall Lane Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was heralded as the best red wine in America by ‘Wine Spectator’ magazine. Since then, the accolades have continued to pour in. In fact, Whitehall Lane’s Cabs have been in the top five wines in the world in the ‘Wine Spectator’s’ Top 100 list, three out of the last five years. They have also been named ‘Winery of the Year’ in both the “Quarterly Review of Wines’ and ‘Wine and Spirits’ magazines. Not too shabby! Even though Tom increased the winery’s vineyard holdings to 110 acres, he narrowed the focus of the winery down to only Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. By doing so, it allowed winemaker, Dean Sylvester, to focus more on quality rather than quantity. This is absolutely vital in making premium wines. The vineyard sites are scattered throughout the Napa Valley floor in Rutherford and St. Helena and they consistently provide Whitehall Lane with outstanding fruit to make award- winning wines with. Tom has a wife and five kids and he hopes that Whitehall Lane will stay in the family for generations to come. Two of his children are already directly involved in the day-to-day operations of the winery. It would be nice to see this happen as a wine lover myself, because if you notice, all of these wineries we are talking about this month are privately owned by families. This really seems to translate into high quality wine from people that are passionate about them. I have been to a couple of Whitehall Lane tastings in the DFW area and their wines are always well received by the wine tasters. Their Cab has especially impressed me because not only did it have all the right stuff to age for years, it was very drinkable now. I think that is hard to do with a lot of these big wines. They usually need time to soften the tannins. The Whitehall Lane 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has been tirelessly constructed of a blend that comprises 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Another Bordeaux style blend, go figure! The grapes for this wine were harvested between the middle of September through the middle of October 2001. After extraction and fermentation, they were aged for twenty months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. The Merlot was added for its softness and as an added layer of complexity, while the Cab Franc and Petit Verdot add a touch of spice to the final blend. As someone that has tasted this wine personally, I can tell you that it all came together quite well and has a profile that should be well received by the majority of American wine drinkers. If you would like to hear more about Whitehall Lane, log on to their website located at: http://www.whitehalllane.com/ |
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