| Chardonnay Recipes |
Well Chardonnay may be the most popular wine style in the
world, but it certainly is not the easiest to pair food with. One is
always left asking, “One with oak or one without oak?”
Unfortunately, it really makes quite a difference. Because of
this, a dish made to pair with a Chardonnay wine may or may
not match at all depending on the style of the one you pick out.
In terms of body, Chardonnay is not a little dainty white wine as
it tends to have a lush, buttery texture and fuller body to it.
Lighter, more acidic versions like Chablis, from Burgundy,
France, can be exceptional when paired with lighter seafood and
shellfish, but you would not want to clutter up a light dish with a
lavishly oaked, California butter-bomb.
Oak imparts tannins and in so doing, it really overwhelms the
palate, which means, that anything light is going to be
overshadowed by the wine. Many, if not most Chardonnay
wines, undergo a secondary fermentation called “Malolactic
Fermentation”, which softens the malic acid in the wine. This is
often what gives Chardonnay that oily, buttery texture on the
palate that people love about Chardonnay. However, by
softening the acid, it does rob the wine its usefulness in pairing
with food because acidity in wine is what allows it to pair with
food so well.
To counteract these measures, go with the Chardonnay’s
strengths and prepare food in buttery or heavy cream sauces.
The match in texture will bring both the food and wine into
balance. Lobster with melted butter may be the ultimate pairing
for that reason. Some of the bigger Chardonnay wines out there
can even be paired with a Filet Mignon. The filet has a buttery
texture to it and tends to be a neutral piece of meat that
Chardonnay can compliment quite nicely. That is if you don’t
overdue it with tangy dark sauces. Speaking of filets, “Filet of
Oscar”, a medium to medium rare cooked filet with lump
crabmeat, asparagus and a creamy béarnaise sauce, could be a
smash hit! Wow! I’m getting hungry just thinking about it!
So while surfing the net for some good ideas for recipes that pair
well with Chardonnay wines, I came across an article off of www.
foodandwine.com that was perfect for this page. Chef Marcia
Kiesel from the test kitchens of Food and Wine Magazine
prepared some recipes to serve with different styles of
Chardonnay wines. Her comments and insight behind how these
recipes are specifically tailored to match a particular style of
Chardonnay wine are foolproof and make for an interesting
platform for replicating her experiments. I hope you’ll try one
of these and tell me what you think about it.
world, but it certainly is not the easiest to pair food with. One is
always left asking, “One with oak or one without oak?”
Unfortunately, it really makes quite a difference. Because of
this, a dish made to pair with a Chardonnay wine may or may
not match at all depending on the style of the one you pick out.
In terms of body, Chardonnay is not a little dainty white wine as
it tends to have a lush, buttery texture and fuller body to it.
Lighter, more acidic versions like Chablis, from Burgundy,
France, can be exceptional when paired with lighter seafood and
shellfish, but you would not want to clutter up a light dish with a
lavishly oaked, California butter-bomb.
Oak imparts tannins and in so doing, it really overwhelms the
palate, which means, that anything light is going to be
overshadowed by the wine. Many, if not most Chardonnay
wines, undergo a secondary fermentation called “Malolactic
Fermentation”, which softens the malic acid in the wine. This is
often what gives Chardonnay that oily, buttery texture on the
palate that people love about Chardonnay. However, by
softening the acid, it does rob the wine its usefulness in pairing
with food because acidity in wine is what allows it to pair with
food so well.
To counteract these measures, go with the Chardonnay’s
strengths and prepare food in buttery or heavy cream sauces.
The match in texture will bring both the food and wine into
balance. Lobster with melted butter may be the ultimate pairing
for that reason. Some of the bigger Chardonnay wines out there
can even be paired with a Filet Mignon. The filet has a buttery
texture to it and tends to be a neutral piece of meat that
Chardonnay can compliment quite nicely. That is if you don’t
overdue it with tangy dark sauces. Speaking of filets, “Filet of
Oscar”, a medium to medium rare cooked filet with lump
crabmeat, asparagus and a creamy béarnaise sauce, could be a
smash hit! Wow! I’m getting hungry just thinking about it!
So while surfing the net for some good ideas for recipes that pair
well with Chardonnay wines, I came across an article off of www.
foodandwine.com that was perfect for this page. Chef Marcia
Kiesel from the test kitchens of Food and Wine Magazine
prepared some recipes to serve with different styles of
Chardonnay wines. Her comments and insight behind how these
recipes are specifically tailored to match a particular style of
Chardonnay wine are foolproof and make for an interesting
platform for replicating her experiments. I hope you’ll try one
of these and tell me what you think about it.
Bay Scallop Pan Roast
TOTAL TIME: 25 MIN
SERVES: 4
Chef Marcia Kiesel vastly prefers sweet and fresh bay scallops to the slightly precooked calico scallops
generally sold in supermarkets. These bay scallops, served with mushrooms and buttery bread crumbs, pair
perfectly with a flinty Chablis like the 2004 Christian Moreau from Burgundy .
ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs, preferably from brioche
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds bay scallops
4 large white mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
directions
1. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the bread crumbs, season lightly with salt
and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the crumbs are golden brown and crisp, about 3
minutes. Scrape the crumbs onto a plate.
2. Wipe out the skillet. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and
let it melt. Add the scallops, season with salt and pepper and brown over high heat, about 2 minutes total.
Transfer the scallops to a large, shallow dish.
3. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in the skillet. Add the mushrooms, season with salt
and pepper and cook over moderate heat until their liquid is almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the
shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook for 30 seconds. Add
the water and simmer for 1 minute.
4. Return the scallops and any accumulated juices to the skillet and season with salt and pepper.
Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Spoon the scallops and mushrooms onto plates, sprinkle with the
bread crumbs and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Braised Pork with Pearl Onions and Grapes
ACTIVE TIME: 45 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 30 MIN
SERVES: 4
Marcia added pearl onions and grapes to her tender pork dish because "they're both sweet and juicy." The
peach-scented 2005 Hendry Unoaked Chardonnay from Napa Valley is a great match.
ingredients
One 2-pound boneless rib-end pork loin roast
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons softened
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig plus 1 teaspoon chopped thyme
1/2 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3/4 pound pearl onions
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 pound red and green grapes
directions
1. Season the pork with salt and pepper. In a small enameled cast-iron casserole, melt 2 tablespoons of
the butter. Add the pork and brown well over moderately high heat, 10 minutes; transfer to a plate. Pour off
the fat from the casserole. Add the wine and boil over high heat, scraping up the browned bits, until reduced by
half, 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the garlic, bay leaf, thyme sprig, yellow onion and the
pork. Cover and simmer over very low heat, turning once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the
center registers 160°, about 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan of water, boil the pearl onions until almost tender, 5 minutes; drain
and peel. In a bowl, blend the 2 tablespoons of softened butter with the flour to form a paste.
3. Transfer the pork to a plate. Strain the cooking liquid and return to the casserole; boil until reduced to 2
cups, 4 minutes. Whisk 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid into the flour paste until smooth, then whisk the mixture
into the cooking liquid. Simmer over moderately high heat, whisking, until thickened. Simmer over low heat,
stirring, until no floury taste remains, 5 minutes. Stir in the chopped thyme and season with salt and pepper.
Return the pork and its juices to the casserole and add the pearl onions. Cover and bring just to a simmer,
turning the pork a few times in the sauce to heat it up.
4. In a skillet, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the grapes and cook over moderately high
heat, shaking the skillet, until the skins start to burst. Thickly slice the pork and transfer to plates. Spoon the
sauce, pearl onions and grapes on top; serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Fresh Corn Soufflé with Bacon and Comté
ACTIVE TIME: 35 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 15 MIN
SERVES: 4
Marcia likes to feature corn in main courses because "it's so substantial," she says, so she uses it here as a
base for a decadent cheese soufflé, enhanced with smoky bacon. The rich flavors of apples and pears in the
2003 Morey-Blanc Meursault from Burgundy complement the dish beautifully.
ingredients
Unsalted butter, for rubbing
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for coating
Salt
4 ears of corn, shucked
1/4 pound thickly sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/3-inch strips
1 cup milk
Freshly ground pepper
3 large egg yolks
2 cups shredded Comté cheese (6 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
6 large egg whites
directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously butter a 1 1/2-quart soufflé dish and coat it with the Parmesan.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add salt and the corn and boil over high heat just until tender, about
5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, cook the bacon over high heat for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to
moderate and cook until browned, about 5 minutes longer.
3. Using tongs, transfer the corn to a plate. Drain off the water and return the saucepan to the stove. Cut
the corn kernels from the cobs; you should have 2 1/2 cups. Put 2 cups of the kernels in the saucepan and add
the milk. Simmer over moderate heat until the milk has reduced by one-third, about 5 minutes. Transfer the
corn and milk to a blender and puree until very smooth. Scrape the puree into a large bowl and stir in the
bacon and the remaining 1/2 cup of corn kernels. Season lightly with salt and pepper and stir in the egg yolks,
Comté and thyme. Cover with plastic wrap and let cool to room temperature.
4. In a large stainless steel bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt at high
speed until they hold firm peaks. Stir one-third of the whites into the corn base to lighten it, then gently fold in
the remaining whites until just blended. Scrape the mixture into the prepared soufflé dish and bake for 45
minutes, or until nicely browned and slightly jiggly in the center. Serve right away.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Boudin Blanc with Leeks and Mustard Sauce
ACTIVE TIME: 30 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR
SERVES: 4
To show off a full-bodied Chardonnay, like the caramelly 2003 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay from Napa
Valley, Kiesel created this simple but luxurious dish. She begins with the classic French veal and pork sausage
boudin blanc, often served with a black truffle–flecked cream sauce. In her riff on the dish, she replaces the
pungent truffles with smooth Dijon and grainy mustards.
ingredients
3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 large leeks, white and tender green parts only, halved lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds white potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup milk, warmed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 white veal-and-pork sausages such as boudin blanc or bockwurst, halved lengthwise
1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
directions
1. In a large skillet, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the leeks and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
Cover partially and simmer over low heat, carefully turning the leeks once, until tender, about 10 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the leeks to a plate. Pour the stock into a large glass measuring cup.
2. In a large saucepan, cover the potatoes with water. Add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil over
moderately high heat until tender, about 12 minutes. Pour off the water. Set the saucepan over the hot burner
and shake the potatoes for 1 minute to dry them out. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a medium
saucepan. Gently stir in the butter, then stir in the milk. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper and cover.
3. In the large skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the sausages and cook over high heat until lightly
browned, about 1 minute per side. Pour in the reserved leek cooking broth, cover and simmer over moderately
low heat for 5 minutes. Transfer the sausages to a warmed platter and cover with foil.
4. Boil the broth in the skillet over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and
boil until reduced by one-third, about 10 minutes. Stir in both mustards and season with salt and pepper. Add
the leeks to the sauce and simmer over low heat until heated through.
5. Rewarm the potatoes, still covered, over moderately high heat, stirring once. Spoon the potatoes onto
plates and set the sausages and leeks next to them. Spoon the mustard sauce over the leeks and potatoes,
sprinkle with the parsley and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Poached Salmon with Caper-Butter Sauce
ACTIVE TIME: 20 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 40 MIN
SERVES: 4
"You'd think salmon is so rich you wouldn't want a butter sauce with it," Kiesel says. "But beurre blanc is
complex. It tastes shallot-y and wine-y. It really complements the flavor of the fish." It's also a great excuse to
drink a buttery Chardonnay like the 2004 Wente Nth Degree Chardonnay from California 's Livermore
Valley .
ingredients
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium shallots, very finely chopped
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups water
Four 6- to 7-ounce skinless salmon fillets
2 cups shredded romaine lettuce
directions
1. In a small skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and cook over low heat until softened, about 4
minutes. Add ‚ cup of the wine and boil over high heat until reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 7 minutes. Reduce
the heat to moderate. Remove the skillet from the heat and whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time,
occasionally moving the pan back to the burner to keep the sauce very warm. Stir in the capers and season
with salt and pepper.
2. In a large skillet, combine the water with the remaining 1/2 cup of wine and bring to a boil. Season the
salmon fillets with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet. Simmer very gently over low heat, turning once,
until just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.
3. When the salmon is almost done, gently reheat the butter sauce over moderate heat, whisking constantly
just until hot; do not let it boil. Spread the shredded lettuce on plates. Using a slotted spatula, remove the
salmon fillets from the skillet and quickly pat them dry with a paper towel, then set them on the lettuce. Pour
the caper-butter sauce over the salmon fillets and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Zucchini Salad with Almonds and Taleggio
TOTAL TIME: 20 MIN
SERVES: 4
Looking to match the earthiness and tropical fruits in the 2005 Kim Crawford Marlborough Unoaked
Chardonnay from New Zealand , Kiesel created this dish of fresh zucchini, balanced by soft, ripe Taleggio and
roasted marcona almonds.
ingredients
1 large shallot, thinly sliced, plus 1 teaspoon minced shallot
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 very fresh 4-ounce zucchini, cut into 2-by-1/3-inch sticks
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 cup roasted, salted almonds, preferably marcona, coarsely chopped
3/4 pound Taleggio cheese, at room temperature, cut into 4 wedges
directions
1. Separate the sliced shallot into rings. In a small skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil. Add the
shallot rings in an even layer and cook over moderate heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. With a
slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil with the minced shallot and lemon juice and
season with salt and pepper. Add the zucchini and toss to coat. Mound the salad on plates. Sprinkle with the
parsley, almonds and fried shallot rings. Set the Taleggio wedges beside the salad and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The shallot rings can be fried 2 hours ahead. Drain the rings on paper towels, then transfer to
a plate and keep at room temperature.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Wine-Baked Chicken Legs with Marjoram
ACTIVE TIME: 20 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 35 MIN
SERVES: 4
The pungent marjoram in the creamy sauce for this crisp-skinned chicken might seem like it would overwhelm
the aromas of melon and honeysuckle in the 2004 Matua Valley Judd Estate Chardonnay from New Zealand .
But lightly oaked Chardonnay can stand up to foods with strong flavors like fresh herbs as long as the dish has
some richness.
ingredients
2 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
6 whole chicken legs
2 cups dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
2 tablespoons chopped marjoram, plus 1 tablespoon marjoram leaves for garnish
directions
1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread the shallots and bay leaf in a 14-by-12-inch baking dish or roasting pan.
Arrange the chicken legs in the pan, skin side up, and pour the wine over the legs. Season the chicken with salt
and pepper and bake in the upper third of the oven for about 50 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and the
chicken is cooked through. Reduce the oven temperature to 300°.
2. Transfer the chicken legs to a heatproof platter. Discard the bay leaf. Pour the pan juices into a small
saucepan and boil over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Add the cream and boil until
reduced by one-third for 5 minutes. Pour the sauce into a large glass measuring cup and let stand for 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, reheat the chicken legs in the oven, about 5 minutes.
4. Whisk the butter into the sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time, until thoroughly blended. Season the sauce with
salt and stir in the chopped marjoram. Spoon the sauce over the chicken legs. Sprinkle with the marjoram
leaves and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Lobster Pappardelle with Chive Butter
ACTIVE TIME: 50 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 15 MIN
SERVES: 4
When choosing lobsters, Kiesel looks for females, which have two feathery feelers at the top of the tails. She
wants the eggs. "Never throw them out," Kiesel says. "You must use them. They're so pretty." She adds the
tiny red eggs, along with lobster meat, to a buttery sauce that she pours over silky pappardelle noodles. This
ultra-luxurious dish is ideal with the lavishly oaked 2004 DeLoach OFS Chardonnay from California 's
Russian River Valley .
ingredients
Two 1 1/2-pound lobsters, preferably female
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
2 thyme sprigs
1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
3/4 pound dried pappardelle
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup snipped chives
directions
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the lobsters, head first, and cook for 5 minutes. The water may
not come back to a boil, but the lobsters will be almost cooked through. Using tongs, transfer the lobsters to a
large rimmed baking sheet to cool. Reserve 3 cups of the cooking liquid.
2. Crack the claws and knuckles and remove the meat. Using scissors, cut along the inside of the tail shells
and remove the meat. Remove and discard the dark intestinal veins from the tails. Put all of the lobster meat
in a bowl and refrigerate. Remove the dark-green eggs from the bodies and top of the tails and reserve. Using
poultry shears, cut the shells into 2- to 3-inch pieces.
3. In a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil. Add the lobster shells and cook over high heat, stirring, until
they are sizzling and just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and thyme and cook over
moderately high heat until the shallots soften, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato and cook until the juices
evaporate. Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add the reserved 3 cups of lobster
cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until reduced to 3 cups, about 20 minutes.
Strain the lobster broth through a fine sieve and return it to the saucepan.
4. Bring the lobster broth to a simmer over moderately high heat. Put the reserved lobster eggs in a small
sieve that fits in the pan of lobster broth and simmer until they turn bright red, about 1 minute. Remove the
sieve from the broth and press the eggs through the mesh into a small bowl to separate them.
5. Return the lobster broth to a boil, add the heavy cream and boil over high heat until reduced to 1 cup,
about 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Slice the lobster tails 1/3 inch thick.
6. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pappardelle, stirring, until al dente. Drain the pasta and
return it to the pot. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, toss well and cover.
7. Add the lobster meat and eggs to the sauce and bring it just to a simmer. Sea-son with salt and pepper.
Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter, 1 tablespoon at a time,
occasionally moving the pan back to the burner to keep the sauce very warm. Stir in the chives. Pour the sauce
over the pappardelle and toss to coat. Transfer to shallow bowls and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 5 up to 1 day ahead. Refrigerate the lobster cream
sauce, lobster meat and cooked eggs separately.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
TOTAL TIME: 25 MIN
SERVES: 4
Chef Marcia Kiesel vastly prefers sweet and fresh bay scallops to the slightly precooked calico scallops
generally sold in supermarkets. These bay scallops, served with mushrooms and buttery bread crumbs, pair
perfectly with a flinty Chablis like the 2004 Christian Moreau from Burgundy .
ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs, preferably from brioche
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds bay scallops
4 large white mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
directions
1. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the bread crumbs, season lightly with salt
and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the crumbs are golden brown and crisp, about 3
minutes. Scrape the crumbs onto a plate.
2. Wipe out the skillet. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and
let it melt. Add the scallops, season with salt and pepper and brown over high heat, about 2 minutes total.
Transfer the scallops to a large, shallow dish.
3. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in the skillet. Add the mushrooms, season with salt
and pepper and cook over moderate heat until their liquid is almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the
shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook for 30 seconds. Add
the water and simmer for 1 minute.
4. Return the scallops and any accumulated juices to the skillet and season with salt and pepper.
Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Spoon the scallops and mushrooms onto plates, sprinkle with the
bread crumbs and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Braised Pork with Pearl Onions and Grapes
ACTIVE TIME: 45 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 30 MIN
SERVES: 4
Marcia added pearl onions and grapes to her tender pork dish because "they're both sweet and juicy." The
peach-scented 2005 Hendry Unoaked Chardonnay from Napa Valley is a great match.
ingredients
One 2-pound boneless rib-end pork loin roast
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons softened
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig plus 1 teaspoon chopped thyme
1/2 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3/4 pound pearl onions
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 pound red and green grapes
directions
1. Season the pork with salt and pepper. In a small enameled cast-iron casserole, melt 2 tablespoons of
the butter. Add the pork and brown well over moderately high heat, 10 minutes; transfer to a plate. Pour off
the fat from the casserole. Add the wine and boil over high heat, scraping up the browned bits, until reduced by
half, 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the garlic, bay leaf, thyme sprig, yellow onion and the
pork. Cover and simmer over very low heat, turning once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the
center registers 160°, about 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan of water, boil the pearl onions until almost tender, 5 minutes; drain
and peel. In a bowl, blend the 2 tablespoons of softened butter with the flour to form a paste.
3. Transfer the pork to a plate. Strain the cooking liquid and return to the casserole; boil until reduced to 2
cups, 4 minutes. Whisk 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid into the flour paste until smooth, then whisk the mixture
into the cooking liquid. Simmer over moderately high heat, whisking, until thickened. Simmer over low heat,
stirring, until no floury taste remains, 5 minutes. Stir in the chopped thyme and season with salt and pepper.
Return the pork and its juices to the casserole and add the pearl onions. Cover and bring just to a simmer,
turning the pork a few times in the sauce to heat it up.
4. In a skillet, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the grapes and cook over moderately high
heat, shaking the skillet, until the skins start to burst. Thickly slice the pork and transfer to plates. Spoon the
sauce, pearl onions and grapes on top; serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Fresh Corn Soufflé with Bacon and Comté
ACTIVE TIME: 35 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 15 MIN
SERVES: 4
Marcia likes to feature corn in main courses because "it's so substantial," she says, so she uses it here as a
base for a decadent cheese soufflé, enhanced with smoky bacon. The rich flavors of apples and pears in the
2003 Morey-Blanc Meursault from Burgundy complement the dish beautifully.
ingredients
Unsalted butter, for rubbing
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for coating
Salt
4 ears of corn, shucked
1/4 pound thickly sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/3-inch strips
1 cup milk
Freshly ground pepper
3 large egg yolks
2 cups shredded Comté cheese (6 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
6 large egg whites
directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously butter a 1 1/2-quart soufflé dish and coat it with the Parmesan.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add salt and the corn and boil over high heat just until tender, about
5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, cook the bacon over high heat for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to
moderate and cook until browned, about 5 minutes longer.
3. Using tongs, transfer the corn to a plate. Drain off the water and return the saucepan to the stove. Cut
the corn kernels from the cobs; you should have 2 1/2 cups. Put 2 cups of the kernels in the saucepan and add
the milk. Simmer over moderate heat until the milk has reduced by one-third, about 5 minutes. Transfer the
corn and milk to a blender and puree until very smooth. Scrape the puree into a large bowl and stir in the
bacon and the remaining 1/2 cup of corn kernels. Season lightly with salt and pepper and stir in the egg yolks,
Comté and thyme. Cover with plastic wrap and let cool to room temperature.
4. In a large stainless steel bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt at high
speed until they hold firm peaks. Stir one-third of the whites into the corn base to lighten it, then gently fold in
the remaining whites until just blended. Scrape the mixture into the prepared soufflé dish and bake for 45
minutes, or until nicely browned and slightly jiggly in the center. Serve right away.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Boudin Blanc with Leeks and Mustard Sauce
ACTIVE TIME: 30 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR
SERVES: 4
To show off a full-bodied Chardonnay, like the caramelly 2003 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay from Napa
Valley, Kiesel created this simple but luxurious dish. She begins with the classic French veal and pork sausage
boudin blanc, often served with a black truffle–flecked cream sauce. In her riff on the dish, she replaces the
pungent truffles with smooth Dijon and grainy mustards.
ingredients
3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 large leeks, white and tender green parts only, halved lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds white potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup milk, warmed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 white veal-and-pork sausages such as boudin blanc or bockwurst, halved lengthwise
1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
directions
1. In a large skillet, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the leeks and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
Cover partially and simmer over low heat, carefully turning the leeks once, until tender, about 10 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the leeks to a plate. Pour the stock into a large glass measuring cup.
2. In a large saucepan, cover the potatoes with water. Add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil over
moderately high heat until tender, about 12 minutes. Pour off the water. Set the saucepan over the hot burner
and shake the potatoes for 1 minute to dry them out. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a medium
saucepan. Gently stir in the butter, then stir in the milk. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper and cover.
3. In the large skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the sausages and cook over high heat until lightly
browned, about 1 minute per side. Pour in the reserved leek cooking broth, cover and simmer over moderately
low heat for 5 minutes. Transfer the sausages to a warmed platter and cover with foil.
4. Boil the broth in the skillet over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and
boil until reduced by one-third, about 10 minutes. Stir in both mustards and season with salt and pepper. Add
the leeks to the sauce and simmer over low heat until heated through.
5. Rewarm the potatoes, still covered, over moderately high heat, stirring once. Spoon the potatoes onto
plates and set the sausages and leeks next to them. Spoon the mustard sauce over the leeks and potatoes,
sprinkle with the parsley and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Poached Salmon with Caper-Butter Sauce
ACTIVE TIME: 20 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 40 MIN
SERVES: 4
"You'd think salmon is so rich you wouldn't want a butter sauce with it," Kiesel says. "But beurre blanc is
complex. It tastes shallot-y and wine-y. It really complements the flavor of the fish." It's also a great excuse to
drink a buttery Chardonnay like the 2004 Wente Nth Degree Chardonnay from California 's Livermore
Valley .
ingredients
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium shallots, very finely chopped
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups water
Four 6- to 7-ounce skinless salmon fillets
2 cups shredded romaine lettuce
directions
1. In a small skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and cook over low heat until softened, about 4
minutes. Add ‚ cup of the wine and boil over high heat until reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 7 minutes. Reduce
the heat to moderate. Remove the skillet from the heat and whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time,
occasionally moving the pan back to the burner to keep the sauce very warm. Stir in the capers and season
with salt and pepper.
2. In a large skillet, combine the water with the remaining 1/2 cup of wine and bring to a boil. Season the
salmon fillets with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet. Simmer very gently over low heat, turning once,
until just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.
3. When the salmon is almost done, gently reheat the butter sauce over moderate heat, whisking constantly
just until hot; do not let it boil. Spread the shredded lettuce on plates. Using a slotted spatula, remove the
salmon fillets from the skillet and quickly pat them dry with a paper towel, then set them on the lettuce. Pour
the caper-butter sauce over the salmon fillets and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Zucchini Salad with Almonds and Taleggio
TOTAL TIME: 20 MIN
SERVES: 4
Looking to match the earthiness and tropical fruits in the 2005 Kim Crawford Marlborough Unoaked
Chardonnay from New Zealand , Kiesel created this dish of fresh zucchini, balanced by soft, ripe Taleggio and
roasted marcona almonds.
ingredients
1 large shallot, thinly sliced, plus 1 teaspoon minced shallot
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 very fresh 4-ounce zucchini, cut into 2-by-1/3-inch sticks
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 cup roasted, salted almonds, preferably marcona, coarsely chopped
3/4 pound Taleggio cheese, at room temperature, cut into 4 wedges
directions
1. Separate the sliced shallot into rings. In a small skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil. Add the
shallot rings in an even layer and cook over moderate heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. With a
slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil with the minced shallot and lemon juice and
season with salt and pepper. Add the zucchini and toss to coat. Mound the salad on plates. Sprinkle with the
parsley, almonds and fried shallot rings. Set the Taleggio wedges beside the salad and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The shallot rings can be fried 2 hours ahead. Drain the rings on paper towels, then transfer to
a plate and keep at room temperature.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Wine-Baked Chicken Legs with Marjoram
ACTIVE TIME: 20 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 35 MIN
SERVES: 4
The pungent marjoram in the creamy sauce for this crisp-skinned chicken might seem like it would overwhelm
the aromas of melon and honeysuckle in the 2004 Matua Valley Judd Estate Chardonnay from New Zealand .
But lightly oaked Chardonnay can stand up to foods with strong flavors like fresh herbs as long as the dish has
some richness.
ingredients
2 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
6 whole chicken legs
2 cups dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
2 tablespoons chopped marjoram, plus 1 tablespoon marjoram leaves for garnish
directions
1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread the shallots and bay leaf in a 14-by-12-inch baking dish or roasting pan.
Arrange the chicken legs in the pan, skin side up, and pour the wine over the legs. Season the chicken with salt
and pepper and bake in the upper third of the oven for about 50 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and the
chicken is cooked through. Reduce the oven temperature to 300°.
2. Transfer the chicken legs to a heatproof platter. Discard the bay leaf. Pour the pan juices into a small
saucepan and boil over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Add the cream and boil until
reduced by one-third for 5 minutes. Pour the sauce into a large glass measuring cup and let stand for 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, reheat the chicken legs in the oven, about 5 minutes.
4. Whisk the butter into the sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time, until thoroughly blended. Season the sauce with
salt and stir in the chopped marjoram. Spoon the sauce over the chicken legs. Sprinkle with the marjoram
leaves and serve.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
Lobster Pappardelle with Chive Butter
ACTIVE TIME: 50 MIN
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 15 MIN
SERVES: 4
When choosing lobsters, Kiesel looks for females, which have two feathery feelers at the top of the tails. She
wants the eggs. "Never throw them out," Kiesel says. "You must use them. They're so pretty." She adds the
tiny red eggs, along with lobster meat, to a buttery sauce that she pours over silky pappardelle noodles. This
ultra-luxurious dish is ideal with the lavishly oaked 2004 DeLoach OFS Chardonnay from California 's
Russian River Valley .
ingredients
Two 1 1/2-pound lobsters, preferably female
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
2 thyme sprigs
1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
3/4 pound dried pappardelle
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup snipped chives
directions
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the lobsters, head first, and cook for 5 minutes. The water may
not come back to a boil, but the lobsters will be almost cooked through. Using tongs, transfer the lobsters to a
large rimmed baking sheet to cool. Reserve 3 cups of the cooking liquid.
2. Crack the claws and knuckles and remove the meat. Using scissors, cut along the inside of the tail shells
and remove the meat. Remove and discard the dark intestinal veins from the tails. Put all of the lobster meat
in a bowl and refrigerate. Remove the dark-green eggs from the bodies and top of the tails and reserve. Using
poultry shears, cut the shells into 2- to 3-inch pieces.
3. In a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil. Add the lobster shells and cook over high heat, stirring, until
they are sizzling and just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and thyme and cook over
moderately high heat until the shallots soften, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato and cook until the juices
evaporate. Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add the reserved 3 cups of lobster
cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until reduced to 3 cups, about 20 minutes.
Strain the lobster broth through a fine sieve and return it to the saucepan.
4. Bring the lobster broth to a simmer over moderately high heat. Put the reserved lobster eggs in a small
sieve that fits in the pan of lobster broth and simmer until they turn bright red, about 1 minute. Remove the
sieve from the broth and press the eggs through the mesh into a small bowl to separate them.
5. Return the lobster broth to a boil, add the heavy cream and boil over high heat until reduced to 1 cup,
about 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Slice the lobster tails 1/3 inch thick.
6. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pappardelle, stirring, until al dente. Drain the pasta and
return it to the pot. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, toss well and cover.
7. Add the lobster meat and eggs to the sauce and bring it just to a simmer. Sea-son with salt and pepper.
Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter, 1 tablespoon at a time,
occasionally moving the pan back to the burner to keep the sauce very warm. Stir in the chives. Pour the sauce
over the pappardelle and toss to coat. Transfer to shallow bowls and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 5 up to 1 day ahead. Refrigerate the lobster cream
sauce, lobster meat and cooked eggs separately.
Recipe by Marcia Kiesel
From Lessons in Chardonnay
This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006.
