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The life of the Grenache grape has always been about a serious of
seconds. It is the second most planted grapevine in the world. I bet you
didn’t know that. In Rioja, Spain, where the grape is known as
“Garnacha”, it is the second most important grape after Tempranillo. In
France, the grape is used by the French Vermouth industry along with
blended amounts of Muscat to make dry vermouth wines. And of course
these vermouth wines are added to martini’s where they play just a
secondary role to the vodka or gin. Yes, the Grenache grape has always
been thought of by most winemakers throughout the world as an excellent
blending grape to round off a blend in a wine where some other grape is
the star. Usually that grape is Syrah. Grenache has throughout its life
always been a bridesmaid and never a bride. Until lately that is!
More and more countries are starting to experiment with Grenache as a
stand-alone varietal wine. Although Spain and France have been making
Grenache wines for centuries, it really has been Australia that has been
pushing Grenache wines into the spotlight. The Aussies have been
featuring them in their “GSM” blend wines (Grenache, Shiraz,
Mouvedre) or even as stand alone Grenache wines and so far, they are
really starting to catch on with the wine buying public. Cult wineries like
Two Hands, d’Arenberg and Torbreck are producing stellar versions of
the grape and so far, the wine critics like what they are tasting.
In Europe Grenache has always played an important role in winemaking
in both Spain and France. And to a lesser extent it is used in Italy under
the name “Cannonau”. Although France seems to be the natural
birthplace for most great grape varietals and the Grenache grape’s fame
and notoriety was definitely spawned from the Southern Rhone wine
region in France, this grape’s origin actually comes from Spain and
specifically from the Rioja and Catalonia regions. France probably
imported the Grenache grapevines into southern France from Spain after
the Phyloxera louse destroyed most of their grapevines. The Grenache
grape seems to be more resistant to this pesky vine killer than the other
grapevines that were fashionable in France for the day.
In Spain, there are a few wines made entirely from Grenache or Garnacha
as it is called there, but by in large, they are mostly used as blending
grapes with Tempranillo wines. It is really the wines of France that have
brought Grenache to light in the world stage. In the Southern Rhone
region of France, Grenache is the most widely planted grape and it is
frequently the star or lead grape in such famous wine blends as
Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Cote du Rhone Villages and even in
some wines from Vacqueyras. It is also planted in large quantities
throughout the rest of Southern France and is the primary grape
responsible for two of the most high quality and best known rose’ wines in
the world, Tavel and Lirac.
Despite Grenache’s modest successes as a stand alone varietal, it really
is well suited to be a blending grape. For one, it buds early on the vine
and if harvested late it reaches extremely high alcohol levels. This allows
a wine-maker to boost up the alcohol level in the Syrah, Mouvedre, etc…
wines that they are making. Another reason why many winemakers are
hesitant to use it as a stand-alone varietal is because it is relatively low in
pigment and malic acid, which translates into a red wine that oxidizes very
rapidly. Therefore, Grenache wines will likely never be wines that age for
long periods of time. But it is precisely this quality in Grenache wines
that are needed to soften the harder, tannin-edged wines like Syrah.
Because Grenache is such a great blending grape it is easy to see why it
is the second most planted grape in the world. However, another reason
might be due to the fact that it is a hearty grape and a breeze to grow
compared to other finicky wine grapes. Grenache can thrive in hot and
dry conditions because it resists heat and can tolerate very limited
rainfall. It is a grape that thrives on harsh conditions. This makes
Grenache an easy choice for many winemakers that don’t live in the ideal
climate and conditions for grapevines. Are you listening to this all you
Texas Winemakers? This could be the ideal grape for the hot and arid
climate of West Texas. Who knows, with a little experimentation, it could
be the grape that puts Texas wines on the wine world map.
Grenache wines typically showcase a wide canvas of flavors. Dark fruits
like black currant and blackberry. Red fruits like cherry, plum, mulberry,
raisin and strawberry. Bold spices like black pepper, lavender, thyme,
menthol or licorice. Along with some short-term bottle aging comes some
tobacco leaf, cigar box and dried apricot aromas and flavors. All of these
wonderful scents and tastes add up to a wine that is great with food.
Grenache is a dark horse grape that has a ways to go before it wins over
the mass market, but many daring and adventurous winemakers are
taking the right steps and making enormous strides to get the wine-buying
public interested in this grape. The Aussies are already hatching many
clever bottle labels that are eye-catching hoping to trigger an impulse buy
from a consumer that would not normally buy a wine made from a grape
they have never heard of. This strategy is working too! Even California
vintners are joining in on the Grenache fad that seems to be silently
taking storm. If you haven’t tried a Grenache wine yet, what are you
waiting for? Who knows? It might even become your second favorite
wine style!
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