| The Wine Industry Spotlight |
| The French Experts Weigh In On White Burgundy Wines |
It makes sense in life to me that if you want to learn more about a subject,
you go to the experts themselves. That is just what I did. I recently asked
three of Burgundy, France’s best White Burgundy producers five
questions on the subject of what they do best, make great White Burgundy
wines. They also make some great red wines too, but since our wine of the
month is White Burgundy, we are sticking to the whites.
First we have Stephane Brocard of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard in
Chablis and they are world renown for their incredible White Burgundy’s
made in the Chablis region of France.
Next we have Laurent J. Drouhin, the son of Joseph Drouhin, one of the
most famous names in the Burgundy wine industry. They are a producer
of Red & White Burgundy wines all throughout Burgundy, France and
own a winery in Oregon that is famous for excellent new world Pinot Noir
wines.
Lastly, we have Paul Haskell, the General Manager of Maison Louis
Latour's direct marketing division, Burgundy and Beyond. Louis Latour
is one of the two largest Burgundy producers in the entire world. Paul
was gracious enough to lend us a lot of his time and give the Dallas Secret
Wine Society a world of information about White Burgundy wines as well
as some interesting stories.
Here are the questions and answers:
What gives Chardonnay from Burgundy the ability to age for years?
Stephane Brocard: The low crops (between 30 and 50 hl/ha) and the
balance between sugar and high level of natural acidity is the secret. Oak
barrel ageing helps the ageing potential of wines, due to the micro-
oxigenation. But what is important to understand is that when the wine has
to be kept in your cellar for years, it will be hard to taste it when young.
The problem is that today people want to consume their bottles faster than
before. Winemakers tend to follow this need and will reduce the ageing
potential with a shorter oak ageing or will harvest the grapes when the
sugar is at its highest level and will not search for the best balance
between sugar and acidity.
Laurent J. Drouhin: Many parameters (components) give this ability to
most of our white Burgundies going through the years. It mainly has to do
with the terroir, the vinification and the ageing process. Yields, time of
picking, vinification is adapted in each appellation. As an example, we do
not vinify our Chablis AC in barrel. The wine does not have the body to
integrate the oak. At the opposite, the Montrachet is aged in bottle 100%
(approx. 50% new oak). Acidity is also a major parameter.
Paul Haskell: I would have to say it is the terroir. You see, not all white
Burgundy ages well. Remember, Burgundy starts with Chablis in the
North, and ends in Beaujolais in the South. In between, there is some
chardonnay that improves with age, and there is some chardonnay that is
made for immediate consumption. Great white Burgundy can be made in
Chablis. Profound white Burgundy is made in Meursault, Puligny
Montrachet, and Chassagne Montrachet. Charming, easy drinking wines
are common in the Maconnais. So, there is a difference in quality and
character depending on where your vineyards are located.
The areas that produce profound white Burgundy are unique in their
terroir.... meaning all the factors that go into producing fruit that
generates individual wines of unique character. It is in these precious few
areas that Chardonnay reaches it's ultimate _expression. For example,
Latour's Corton Charlemagne is a huge brooding monster of a chardonnay
that still possesses balance, delicacy, and finesse. Sadly, you can not say
the same for the fruit/oak bombs produced by many of the New World's
most sought after labels. It is white Burgundy's balance of fruit, acid, and
oak that allows these wines to age well for many years. Latour's Corton
Charlemagne from an excellent vintage can easily age and improve for 15-
20 years. So to cut to the chase, it is the terroir that produces grapes of
exquisite balance, and minimalist wine making technique that makes
Burgundian chardonnay age worthy.
Why are some regions in Burgundy so much better than others?
SB: It is an empiric method. During centuries, Romans and Cistercian
monks use to choose the best places for each varieties. For example, the
Grand Cru slope in Chablis was already in the XIIth century the best place
to produce white wines in this part of Burgundy. The soils, the exposure,
the climate (temperature, winds, humidity) and the techniques compose the
answer of your question. It is possible to find good places everywhere in
tempered climate, but you have to respect the conditions. Furthermore, the
AOC regulations are really strict in Burgundy, especially for upper quality
wines. Short pruning, low crops, gentle press, local yeasts, ageing on lees,
etc... are responsible for good quality wines, but the most important thing
is the quality of the grapes first.
LJD: Terroir. For example, the soil in Le Montrachet contains a lot of
iron oxide and, as you know, in Burgundy, we have a majority of
limestone. It gives a perfect drainage as well as a good location mid of the
hillside. This contribution of highly controlled yields with a great exposure
makes this Montrachet exceptional.
PH: I would have to say it is the terroir. Unique soils, exposure to the
sun, drainage, afternoon breezes, sunlight and warmth in September....the
list goes on and on. It is the terroir, meaning everything that goes into
making the perfect grape. Now is one region better than the other.... I
don't know about that. I think all of the regions of Burgundy need to be
appreciated for their unique terroir, and the wines they produce. If I am
looking for something steely and green, then I need a Latour Chablis La
Chanfleure. If I am looking for something BIG, then I need a Latour
Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots. If I am looking for a simple, enjoyable
quaff, then I look to something like a Latour Macon Villages Chameroy.
One better than the other? Well, I suppose it all depends on what you are
looking for. If I had my way, I would drink Maison Louis Latour Batard
Montrachet Bienvenues, every day.
Would you elaborate on the concept of Terroir?
SB: Terroir is not only the soil and its composition where vines grow, it is
the result between soil, varieties used on, and most of all, its history. I
mean, a particular terroir is a land where farmers or winegrowers have
proceeded in the same way for centuries, using the most appropriate
techniques for each parcels and type of soils. That is why when a vineyard
is newly planted in a new area, there is not yet a concept of terroir.
LJD: It is not exclusively the soil, neither the exposure or the climate....
Terroir is the combination of:
- subsoil (mother soil),
- soil (components, type),
- grape variety (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay),
- exposure (south, south-east, east),
- climate (many micro climates here in Burgundy),
- yields.
To control and guide all these parameters: the winemaker. She, or he,
decides the date of picking, adapted vinification, use of oak.....
PH: I would refer you to the answers to the first two questions, but if that
isn't enough, this is what the wine maker at Latour says:
Terroirs
Perhaps the most important factor that affects the flavors of Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay grapes grown in the Cote d'Or is the soil. There are soil
differences in each vineyard, and variations in the soil composition every
few paces. There are three principal components of the soil of the Cote
d'Or : limestone (calcaire), clay (argile) and sand (silice). The different
combinations of these elements go a long way to explain some of the
differences in the flavors of the final wines. Generally speaking sandy or
gravelly soils favor lighter wines ; clays favor robust reds with good color
and high alcohol and tannin content ; limestone soils favor high alcohol and
powerful bouquet wines ; soils high in iron oxide are ideal for color and
bouquet..
What styles of oak barrels do you use? Do you use new oak or prefer
older oak barrels to age your Chardonnay in and what degree of toasting
do you prefer?
SB: For our Chablis, we do not use oak barrels. We want to respect the
thin minerality of Chablis wines and the fruityness of chardonnay. We do
not want the wood to hide those aromas. When my father began to vinify
his Chablis in stainless steel tanks, no one would have followed him in the
70's. But now, 95% of the winemakers are using steel tanks in Chablis. It
became the typicity of Chablis. When you smell a Meursault, you are
prepared to find nut or vanilla aromas. But when you taste a Chablis, you
will look for the fruits and the flinty character given by the soils. We only
use barrels for Grand Cru (blend of 20% oak/ 80% tank). Those "tank"
wines can also be kept for years.
The few barrels we use are old barrels (one to three years) with the lower
degree of toasting. In Burgundy, it is not possible to use high degree of
toasting because it is to strong for the natural aromas of the wines. It hides
the typicity of the pinot noir and the chardonnay (but not in Bordeaux
where the wines are deeper and stronger).
LJD: We use french oak, most of them from Allier and Nevers,
sometimes Limousin. There is no rule regarding the pourcentage and it is
adapted to each appellation (no oak for the St Véran, approx. 30% new
oak for Beaune Clos des Mouches). Most of them are slightly toasted.
PH: At Louis Latour, we make our own barrels....have done so for years.
As a matter of fact, we import our barrels into the US and sell them to
many of California's finest Chardonnay producers. Our Grand Cru, and
the majority of Premier Cru wines are all aged in new French oak. The
barrels are processed with a medium toast...not too much toast, just
enough toast. We also sell our used barrels to many California wineries.
Still, it is not the barrel that makes the wine, it is the fruit which is an
extension of the perfect terroir that makes the wine. That and a warm and
dry September!
What types of food do you recommend serving with White Burgundy
wines?
SB: Fish and seafood (oysters) for the youngest and the dryiest. White
meat or fish with creamy sauces and delicatessen or goat cheese for
medium quality white Burgundy. And for high quality ones, each one has
its own reference!
LJD: Food: there is a wide variety of food that can match with white
burgundies:
- Chablis and higher : seafood and shellfish,
- Côte de Beaune whites : poultry, white meat, seafood, sushi, foie
gras,
- Côte chalonnaise, Côte Mâconnaise : delicate, seafood, light white
meat.
Of course, the trick is to match all kinds of food and the marriage is
great.
PH: Anything you like. We are not hung up on the old white with fish, red
with meat routine. I would be more than happy having a Latour
Montrachet as a compliment to a great steak. Hey, I would love to have
Latour's Chateau Corton Grancey (pinot noir) with fish, fowl, or just by
itself. So there is really no set rule. Just enjoy your wine with whatever
you are eating. Here is a story for youl. I once had a customer ask me,
"What is the best wine in the world?" I answered with the question with
the question, "Well, what do you enjoy?". The answer was, "I love White
Zinfandel". I stopped and said, "If that is your favorite, then that is the
world's finest wine". Wine is a very personal thing. It is up to the
individual. I love Latour. Latour makes the purest _expression of white
and red Burgundy available in the market. So for me, the greatest wine in
the world is Maison Louis Latour Batard Montrachet Bienvenues!
I can’t thank Stephane, Laurent & Paul enough for taking time out of
their busy schedules to answers these questions for us. I encourage you to
take a moment and stop by their websites for more information about them
and their Burgundy wines. Or better yet, go out and buy one of their
wines and find out first hand how great they are!
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard – www.brocard.fr
Domaine Joseph Drouhin – www.drouhin.com
Maison Louis Latour – www.louislatour.com
Burgundy & Beyond - www.BurgundyandBeyond.com
you go to the experts themselves. That is just what I did. I recently asked
three of Burgundy, France’s best White Burgundy producers five
questions on the subject of what they do best, make great White Burgundy
wines. They also make some great red wines too, but since our wine of the
month is White Burgundy, we are sticking to the whites.
First we have Stephane Brocard of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard in
Chablis and they are world renown for their incredible White Burgundy’s
made in the Chablis region of France.
Next we have Laurent J. Drouhin, the son of Joseph Drouhin, one of the
most famous names in the Burgundy wine industry. They are a producer
of Red & White Burgundy wines all throughout Burgundy, France and
own a winery in Oregon that is famous for excellent new world Pinot Noir
wines.
Lastly, we have Paul Haskell, the General Manager of Maison Louis
Latour's direct marketing division, Burgundy and Beyond. Louis Latour
is one of the two largest Burgundy producers in the entire world. Paul
was gracious enough to lend us a lot of his time and give the Dallas Secret
Wine Society a world of information about White Burgundy wines as well
as some interesting stories.
Here are the questions and answers:
What gives Chardonnay from Burgundy the ability to age for years?
Stephane Brocard: The low crops (between 30 and 50 hl/ha) and the
balance between sugar and high level of natural acidity is the secret. Oak
barrel ageing helps the ageing potential of wines, due to the micro-
oxigenation. But what is important to understand is that when the wine has
to be kept in your cellar for years, it will be hard to taste it when young.
The problem is that today people want to consume their bottles faster than
before. Winemakers tend to follow this need and will reduce the ageing
potential with a shorter oak ageing or will harvest the grapes when the
sugar is at its highest level and will not search for the best balance
between sugar and acidity.
Laurent J. Drouhin: Many parameters (components) give this ability to
most of our white Burgundies going through the years. It mainly has to do
with the terroir, the vinification and the ageing process. Yields, time of
picking, vinification is adapted in each appellation. As an example, we do
not vinify our Chablis AC in barrel. The wine does not have the body to
integrate the oak. At the opposite, the Montrachet is aged in bottle 100%
(approx. 50% new oak). Acidity is also a major parameter.
Paul Haskell: I would have to say it is the terroir. You see, not all white
Burgundy ages well. Remember, Burgundy starts with Chablis in the
North, and ends in Beaujolais in the South. In between, there is some
chardonnay that improves with age, and there is some chardonnay that is
made for immediate consumption. Great white Burgundy can be made in
Chablis. Profound white Burgundy is made in Meursault, Puligny
Montrachet, and Chassagne Montrachet. Charming, easy drinking wines
are common in the Maconnais. So, there is a difference in quality and
character depending on where your vineyards are located.
The areas that produce profound white Burgundy are unique in their
terroir.... meaning all the factors that go into producing fruit that
generates individual wines of unique character. It is in these precious few
areas that Chardonnay reaches it's ultimate _expression. For example,
Latour's Corton Charlemagne is a huge brooding monster of a chardonnay
that still possesses balance, delicacy, and finesse. Sadly, you can not say
the same for the fruit/oak bombs produced by many of the New World's
most sought after labels. It is white Burgundy's balance of fruit, acid, and
oak that allows these wines to age well for many years. Latour's Corton
Charlemagne from an excellent vintage can easily age and improve for 15-
20 years. So to cut to the chase, it is the terroir that produces grapes of
exquisite balance, and minimalist wine making technique that makes
Burgundian chardonnay age worthy.
Why are some regions in Burgundy so much better than others?
SB: It is an empiric method. During centuries, Romans and Cistercian
monks use to choose the best places for each varieties. For example, the
Grand Cru slope in Chablis was already in the XIIth century the best place
to produce white wines in this part of Burgundy. The soils, the exposure,
the climate (temperature, winds, humidity) and the techniques compose the
answer of your question. It is possible to find good places everywhere in
tempered climate, but you have to respect the conditions. Furthermore, the
AOC regulations are really strict in Burgundy, especially for upper quality
wines. Short pruning, low crops, gentle press, local yeasts, ageing on lees,
etc... are responsible for good quality wines, but the most important thing
is the quality of the grapes first.
LJD: Terroir. For example, the soil in Le Montrachet contains a lot of
iron oxide and, as you know, in Burgundy, we have a majority of
limestone. It gives a perfect drainage as well as a good location mid of the
hillside. This contribution of highly controlled yields with a great exposure
makes this Montrachet exceptional.
PH: I would have to say it is the terroir. Unique soils, exposure to the
sun, drainage, afternoon breezes, sunlight and warmth in September....the
list goes on and on. It is the terroir, meaning everything that goes into
making the perfect grape. Now is one region better than the other.... I
don't know about that. I think all of the regions of Burgundy need to be
appreciated for their unique terroir, and the wines they produce. If I am
looking for something steely and green, then I need a Latour Chablis La
Chanfleure. If I am looking for something BIG, then I need a Latour
Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots. If I am looking for a simple, enjoyable
quaff, then I look to something like a Latour Macon Villages Chameroy.
One better than the other? Well, I suppose it all depends on what you are
looking for. If I had my way, I would drink Maison Louis Latour Batard
Montrachet Bienvenues, every day.
Would you elaborate on the concept of Terroir?
SB: Terroir is not only the soil and its composition where vines grow, it is
the result between soil, varieties used on, and most of all, its history. I
mean, a particular terroir is a land where farmers or winegrowers have
proceeded in the same way for centuries, using the most appropriate
techniques for each parcels and type of soils. That is why when a vineyard
is newly planted in a new area, there is not yet a concept of terroir.
LJD: It is not exclusively the soil, neither the exposure or the climate....
Terroir is the combination of:
- subsoil (mother soil),
- soil (components, type),
- grape variety (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay),
- exposure (south, south-east, east),
- climate (many micro climates here in Burgundy),
- yields.
To control and guide all these parameters: the winemaker. She, or he,
decides the date of picking, adapted vinification, use of oak.....
PH: I would refer you to the answers to the first two questions, but if that
isn't enough, this is what the wine maker at Latour says:
Terroirs
Perhaps the most important factor that affects the flavors of Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay grapes grown in the Cote d'Or is the soil. There are soil
differences in each vineyard, and variations in the soil composition every
few paces. There are three principal components of the soil of the Cote
d'Or : limestone (calcaire), clay (argile) and sand (silice). The different
combinations of these elements go a long way to explain some of the
differences in the flavors of the final wines. Generally speaking sandy or
gravelly soils favor lighter wines ; clays favor robust reds with good color
and high alcohol and tannin content ; limestone soils favor high alcohol and
powerful bouquet wines ; soils high in iron oxide are ideal for color and
bouquet..
What styles of oak barrels do you use? Do you use new oak or prefer
older oak barrels to age your Chardonnay in and what degree of toasting
do you prefer?
SB: For our Chablis, we do not use oak barrels. We want to respect the
thin minerality of Chablis wines and the fruityness of chardonnay. We do
not want the wood to hide those aromas. When my father began to vinify
his Chablis in stainless steel tanks, no one would have followed him in the
70's. But now, 95% of the winemakers are using steel tanks in Chablis. It
became the typicity of Chablis. When you smell a Meursault, you are
prepared to find nut or vanilla aromas. But when you taste a Chablis, you
will look for the fruits and the flinty character given by the soils. We only
use barrels for Grand Cru (blend of 20% oak/ 80% tank). Those "tank"
wines can also be kept for years.
The few barrels we use are old barrels (one to three years) with the lower
degree of toasting. In Burgundy, it is not possible to use high degree of
toasting because it is to strong for the natural aromas of the wines. It hides
the typicity of the pinot noir and the chardonnay (but not in Bordeaux
where the wines are deeper and stronger).
LJD: We use french oak, most of them from Allier and Nevers,
sometimes Limousin. There is no rule regarding the pourcentage and it is
adapted to each appellation (no oak for the St Véran, approx. 30% new
oak for Beaune Clos des Mouches). Most of them are slightly toasted.
PH: At Louis Latour, we make our own barrels....have done so for years.
As a matter of fact, we import our barrels into the US and sell them to
many of California's finest Chardonnay producers. Our Grand Cru, and
the majority of Premier Cru wines are all aged in new French oak. The
barrels are processed with a medium toast...not too much toast, just
enough toast. We also sell our used barrels to many California wineries.
Still, it is not the barrel that makes the wine, it is the fruit which is an
extension of the perfect terroir that makes the wine. That and a warm and
dry September!
What types of food do you recommend serving with White Burgundy
wines?
SB: Fish and seafood (oysters) for the youngest and the dryiest. White
meat or fish with creamy sauces and delicatessen or goat cheese for
medium quality white Burgundy. And for high quality ones, each one has
its own reference!
LJD: Food: there is a wide variety of food that can match with white
burgundies:
- Chablis and higher : seafood and shellfish,
- Côte de Beaune whites : poultry, white meat, seafood, sushi, foie
gras,
- Côte chalonnaise, Côte Mâconnaise : delicate, seafood, light white
meat.
Of course, the trick is to match all kinds of food and the marriage is
great.
PH: Anything you like. We are not hung up on the old white with fish, red
with meat routine. I would be more than happy having a Latour
Montrachet as a compliment to a great steak. Hey, I would love to have
Latour's Chateau Corton Grancey (pinot noir) with fish, fowl, or just by
itself. So there is really no set rule. Just enjoy your wine with whatever
you are eating. Here is a story for youl. I once had a customer ask me,
"What is the best wine in the world?" I answered with the question with
the question, "Well, what do you enjoy?". The answer was, "I love White
Zinfandel". I stopped and said, "If that is your favorite, then that is the
world's finest wine". Wine is a very personal thing. It is up to the
individual. I love Latour. Latour makes the purest _expression of white
and red Burgundy available in the market. So for me, the greatest wine in
the world is Maison Louis Latour Batard Montrachet Bienvenues!
I can’t thank Stephane, Laurent & Paul enough for taking time out of
their busy schedules to answers these questions for us. I encourage you to
take a moment and stop by their websites for more information about them
and their Burgundy wines. Or better yet, go out and buy one of their
wines and find out first hand how great they are!
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard – www.brocard.fr
Domaine Joseph Drouhin – www.drouhin.com
Maison Louis Latour – www.louislatour.com
Burgundy & Beyond - www.BurgundyandBeyond.com
| Domaine Louis Latour |
| Jean-Marc Brocard |
| Stephane (far left) and the rest of the Jean-Marc Brocard Crew |
| Laurent (far left) and the Drouhin Family |
