This was our last and final full day in Tuscany and it would go on to be one of the most memorable days of our lives. Like I mentioned previously, it was our good fortune that we wound up going to Siena instead of Pisa. You can bet we were in the lobby and ready for the tour of Siena on time this morning. Even though the tour of Siena was optional for the group, I would say most people chose to take this tour.
Siena is about an hour or so bus ride south of Florence and unfortunately it would be the closest I would ever get to Montalcino, home of the Brunello di Montalcino wines. The countryside was once again beautiful, but a lot of us were too tired to notice this morning. Perhaps the week had started to catch up to us. When the bus finally arrived at its destination, it was at the base of a giant wall that encased the medieval city of Siena.
Siena, unlike San Gimignano and many other towns around Tuscany, is a small city, albeit a very medieval and unindustrialized one. The pace of the people that lived inside the walls of the city moved about slowly, but purposely. Did you know that at one time, Siena was the largest city in Europe? Poor planning by the city engineers was the cause of its decline. There was but one watering source for the entire city. People would come down to this place to fetch their water for the day and to socialize with the other people from around the city. There was plenty of water for everyone, that was never the issue, but when the city and indeed the countryside fell victim to the Black Plague, it spread like wildfire within the city walls because of the close quarters of people living together and to a greater extent, the one and only source of water. Within a very short period of time the population of Siena was reduced to one third of what it was in its heyday. In case you were wondering, I believe Paris, France is now the largest city in Europe.
I thought Siena was enchanting and you could not help believing that you were wandering through some medieval tale, what with its narrow streets of cobblestone and old stone buildings lined side by side all the way through the twisting maze of passageways and all. Siena was at one time in competition with Florence on a number of levels. Sometimes they were enemies. (It’s important to note that Italy has not always been one single country, but many different ones) Sometimes they were economic foes and then at times, there was just plain jealousy. For instance, Siena at one time boasted of the largest Duomo (Church) in Tuscany, so the people of Florence had to build a bigger one. Then the people of Siena had to add to theirs so that it would be bigger than the new one in Florence. Eventually, Florence won the battle and you can see pictures of this masterpiece on the first two pages of our Italy trip. It is the white and dark striped church that appears in many pictures on those pages. As cool as it is, the one in Siena just might be neater if for nothing else than the fact that I was allowed to take pictures inside their Duomo and it was spectacular.
I could have literally taken hundreds of pictures inside this church there was so many things to see and read. All in Latin of course! Our long winded tour guide seemed hell bent on discussing every last minute detail about the murals made of marble in the floor. There was far too much to see for us to spend thirty minutes on one piece of art, so I snuck away from the group to take pictures. There was also a side room to this church that was filled with so many colors I felt like I had stepped into a rainbow.
Our tour guide, on one of the times I was actually paying attention, mentioned that construction for this church started in the late 1200’s and was finished sometime in the early 1400’s. Good heavens, in this day and age a contractor would have been fired for taking over 2 years to complete the job, let alone over a hundred. However, with as much detail as had gone into the features of this building, it was easy to see why it took so long. Along the walls at the highest point next to the ceiling, were carved statue heads of every pope throughout the centuries. In the middle of the building was a two story pulpit that I was told was no longer used, but you could see how it was necessary to stand high above the masses that must have gathered inside the church back in those times. Now there is a much smaller pulpit used at the back of the church where services are now held to a markedly smaller crowd of worshippers. I even found a confessional booth to the side of the great room. I wonder what I would have heard had I stepped inside of it!
Since we were now running behind schedule, thanks to in no small part our windbag of a tour guide, so we hurried through the streets like a herd of banshees. After a few lefts, rights and short sprints, we ended up in the heart of the city which is this humongous open courtyard area surrounded by buildings in a stadium-like fashion. This area of the city is where most of the population of Siena congregates. There were more restaurants located here than anywhere else in the city and more gift shops than you could shake a stick at. A tradition that was started centuries ago is still practiced here to this day. It is the annual horse race. Every year, they fill the outside track of this courtyard with sand and people gather either in the center courtyard or in the buildings that line that outside to watch these horse races throughout the day. Think of it as Siena’s version of the Kentucky Derby.
We were given an hour to walk around the courtyard and see the shops and stores before we had to meet at one of the restaurants for lunch. There was a building that had a giant clock tower perched atop of it that drew Leslie and I’s attention. Upon hearing how much it cost just to go up in the tower, we changed our minds and instead settled for taking pictures of it from the ground. Lunch was authentically Italian although regrettably, largely forgettable, alas, even the wine was marginal. After lunch, we were ushered quickly back to our buses for the journey back to Florence.
When we arrived back at our hotel, our hospitality crew handed out envelopes that were personally addressed to each person. Inside, you were given instructions and a time that you were to be ready and down in the lobby for dinner that evening. And with that, we headed up to our room for a little R&R.
Dinner tonight was a big deal. Men wore suits and the ladies dressed to the nines. Aside from this being our last dinner in Italy, it was also Leslie’s company’s awards banquet. We didn’t know ahead of time where this dinner would be, only that it was going to be really special. Man did they ever deliver on their promise!
We arrived in the lobby at our designated time along with one other couple. Outside the hotel was a horse and carriage waiting to whisk us away to dinner. I would say the ride was romantic except that I was seated with my back to horse and driver and never saw where we were going, only where we had been and what we were fortunate not to be stepping in! These horses seemed to move faster than the puny cars that roamed the streets of Florence. We arrived in front of this building that we were told was yet another museum in Florence, as if there weren’t enough. Leslie and I along with the other couple were told stand together and wait outside the entrance to the museum. In a few moments, they motion for us to step through the door. There directly in front of us were men with long trumpets dressed in Renaissance costumes along the left and right of us. Someone announced who we were and as they did we moved forward to a trumpet serenade. I’m serious, I can’t make things like this up!
Once inside, you could see several white cloth tables throughout an open air courtyard to this museum. You were encouraged to walk up this incredibly long staircase to the second floor and see the art. I did that at first, but I must confess, I was all cultured out at this point. However, the top of the staircase proved to be an outstanding vantage point for some great pictures of the courtyard below and guests that were arriving. All through the evening, Italian men in white coats carried trays of hors d’ ourves for you to munch on and of course, plenty of Chianti wine.
When we finally sat down for dinner, we were treated to an opera-like singing performance from three very talented individuals. Figuro, Figuro, Figuro! After hearing these performances for about thirty minutes, I found myself in the bathroom with a few other gentlemen where I joked out load, “You got your chocolate in-a-my peanut butter.” This was met with a rousing round of laughter, however, one traitor in the bathroom took my idea and went out to the stage to one of the open mics and uttered my line to the crowd. They laughed hysterically! Bastard! That was supposed to be my moment!
Dinner was extremely fancy. I took a few pictures of the food and as you can see the presentation was remarkable. I thought the food was delicious, but others in my party felt it was a bit to fru fru for them. After dinner, we were once again treated to another performance of a different kind. Men and women, all dressed in Renaissance costumes, assembled in a drum and trumpet ensemble, while some women danced and highlighted by two men that were trained flag throwers. They were incredible! Afterwards we had all of the back-patting awards given to this employee or that broker, etc… And then it was off back to our hotel. Our week in Italy had come to a glorious end!
Our last night was a Saturday and it just so happened that the US was playing Italy that night in the World Cup. If you will recall, the US actually tied Italy, which was an incredible feat considering that Italy went on to win the World Cup and had never lost a game in the tournament. Every bar in town was crammed full of locals that were watching the soccer match. As we were heading back to the airport on our buses the next morning we encountered a group of young men in their late teens that had obviously figured out somehow that we were Americans. One of the young lads ran out into the street ahead of us and stopped the bus and proceeded to drop his trousers and moon us in jest for the results of the game while the boys on the side were laughing hysterically. Of course, everyone on our bus was laughing hysterically too! I think that playful action summed up the people of Italy that we met on our trip. They were all fun- loving people that seemed to get the most out of life and we could all learn a lesson from them back here in the hectic life of the States!